Growing Brussel Sprouts

The most important of winter vegetables for it begins to crop in October and continues until March, spanning the six coldest months of the year. It is extremely hardy and will continue to hear sprouts no matter how severe the weather.

To have tine sprouts which retain their shape after cooking, the plants must he grown well. They should be sturdy and compact and he grown in firm ground. A long jointed plant growing in loose soil will produce a large, open sprout lacking in all those qualities which go to make up a vegetable of refinement, especially when steamed in butter or margarine, rather than boiled in water.

Sowing Brussels sprouts require a long season, so make two sowings, one about September ist to conic into bearing in the autumn of the following year and another in March to crop during the latter weeks of the following winter and through spring.

If the seed is sown thinly in a frame or in drills transplanting will not be necessary, though where growing for exhibition, transplant into specially prepared beds before moving the plants to where they are to crop.

As they crop over a long period, a rich well prepared soil is necessary, one which has been worked in winter and has been given a generous application of hydrated lime. The soil should be allowed to ‘weather’ and in spring, when free from frost, work in sonic well composted strawy manure or wool shoddy, both of which will release their nitrogen steadily and over a long period. Just before planting fork in 4 ounces per square yard of hoof or horn meal and 2 ounces per square yard of superphosphate. and sulphate of potash mixed together. This will help both to build up a sturdy plant and with the formation of hard, crisp sprouts.

General cultivation Plant early in April, 2 to 3 feet apart depending upon variety and make the soil firm about the roots. Grown well, the plants devoting greater attention to details will obtain twice the weight.

After planting, keep the hoe moving between the plants and, as they make growth, tread the soil around the roots so that when in bearing the heavily weighted plants will not blow over. A late summer mulch of strawy manure will assist the plants in their cropping whilst they must not be allowed to lack moisture during summer.

Early in autumn, remove any decayed leaves and begin to harvest the sprouts befbre they become large and coarse. If they do, they will lose flavor and will prevent the later forming sprouts from reaching maturity. To remove the sprouts, snap them from the main stern, gathering one or two from each plant as they reach about an inch in diameter. In this way, the plants will continue to crop right through winter and when all the sprouts have been gathered, the tops may then be cut and used as ‘cabbage’.

Exhibiting No winter ‘green’ is more useful to the exhibitor for there will be few days when there will be no sprouts to harvest. After removing the sprouts, trim the stems with a sharp knife and carefully cut away any yellowing leaves which are sometimes to be found at the base of’ the sprout. If these leaves are still green, do not remove them. So that they are quite clean, wash the sprouts in cold water or wipe them with a damp cloth and remove any that have opened.

Pests and Diseases

CABBAGE ROOT FLY This is the most serious pest attacking Brussels sprouts and indeed all brassica crops. The flies lay their eggs in the soil and white maggots eat the roots, causing the plants to wilt and die back. To prevent an attack, spray the soil around the base of the plants with Lindex solution and as a further precaution, dip the roots before planting into a paste made up of Calomel and water. Dusting the plants with Lindex at regular intervals throughout summer will also prevent trouble f’rom aphides which winter on the plants, sucking the leaves and causing them to wilt.

CLUB ROOT The swollen roots contain spores of the disease which will pass into the soil to attack later crops. Calomel dust applied to the roots before planting will prevent an attack.

DOWNY MILDEW This attacks all brassicas, especially the Brussels sprout, including the young seedlings and also the sprouts, covering them with a grey mould. It also attacks cabbage and it is possible for the fungus to remain alive on decaying leaves in the soil for several years. It may also attack the heads of savoys during the latter weeks of winter. Regular spraying with Bordeaux Mixture will prevent an outbreak.

WIREWORM This pest may prove troublesome to brassica crops and is of 1 en prevalent in newly dug soil. It is the grub of the click beetle, being thin and wiry and orange in colour. It will sever and devour