Growing Celery

Two sowings should be made, one of the self- blanching to use from the latter weeks of summer until the late autumn; another of the ordinary white or pink variety to use through winter. This will be crisp and tender only after hard frost. It requires more labor in its culture than the self- blanching type.

Self-blanching Celery has greater appeal to the amateur as it does not require trenching. It is grown on the flat in a soil which has been deeply worked and well man ured, decayed strawy manure being most suitable, whilst any other materials which will enable the soil to retain moisture should be provided.

The plants are set out early in June about 9 inches apart. Plant firmly and never allow them to lack moisture or they will grow tough and stringy. Early in September the first roots will be ready to lift and should be used as soon as possible. Eaten raw or braised, this celery has a mild, nutty flavor and, if grown well, the sticks will be crisp and tender.

This requires no earthing whilst the lime-green sticks are solid and free from fibre with the flavor outstanding.

Non self-blanching celery is the more familiar ordinary celery, mostly cultivated by market gardeners to supply the wholesale markets during winter, though with the greater economy of the self- blanching type, whereby three times the number of plants may he grown to the acre, more growers are now planting the self-blanching type.

Most celery is grown in the black fenland soil of East Anglia, elsewhere it requires a heavy loam retentative of summer moisture. It also needs to be grown in trenches which should be enriched with decayed nianure, augmented by garden compost or peateAs the trench is prepared, the humus materials should be well trodden down for firm planting is essential. Make the trench 12 inches deep and if it is made sufficiently wide, a double row should be planted so as to obtain the most economic use of the compost.

To be successful, celery must be grown well from the beginning and raising the plants demands some attention. Should the seedlings be left too long before transplanting, they will become `hard’ and may run to seed if the summer is dry and warm. Taking 3 to 4 weeks to germinate, the seed must be sown early enough to have made good sized plants to set out early in June. This means sowing in a frame over a gentle hot bed about mid-March, St. Patrick’s Day being the time usually chosen by the fenland growers.

Sow thinly and as soon as the seed has germinated, admit fresh air whenever the days are mild. The seedlings are transplanted to frames or are set out in rows beneath cloches, setting them inches apart and here they remain until ready for the open ground about June r st. They should not be planted out until they have been gradually hardened off

Plant out on a dull, showery day and moisten the roots before doing so. If the trench is filled in to within 3 inches of the top, this will enable the plants to receive moisture from the surrounding soil and will make it easier for earthing up. Plant io inches apart in a double row, but allowing 12 inches for the most vigorous varieties such as ‘Lancashire Prize Red’. Keep the plants damp by frequent watering,s whilst an occasional watering with dilute liquid manure from early July will help to build up plants of exhibition quality.

Celery is not lifted before the first sharp frost which is considered necessary to improve its quality, ensuring that crispness which is the hallmark of good celery. Take care when lifting, that the soil does not reach the heart, which will prove difficult to clean ifit does. Begin lifting at the end of the row, first pulling back the soil and pressing the fork well into the ground so that the plant may he lifted without damage to the stems. Then trim off the roots and wash free of soil.

Exhibiting With celery, a large root usually signifies tender stalks, the reverse of most vegetables when size generally stands for coarseness. To have the stalks free from soil, blanching may be done by the cardboard method but it is important to allow the plants to mature fully before blanching commences.

When lifting for exhibition, leave the roots on, carefully shaking off the soil and, until ready to take to the show ground, leave the cardboard on for this will keep the sticks clean. Stand the plants upright in shallow water to give them a long drink then, several hours before exhibiting, remove the cardboard and wash the stems, the leaves being left on. After washing, allow excess moisture to drain away then wrap the plants in muslin and pack close together in a long box provided with air holes.

Pests and Diseases

CELERY FLY It lays its eggs on the foliage during the mid-summer months, the larvae attacking the leaves causing them to blister and decay. The blisters may be pinched to kill the maggots but to prevent an attack, spray the foliage during June and July with quassia solution which will prevent the flies from laying their eggs. As the flies will lay several times, it is necessary to repeat the spraying at intervals of 3 weeks.

HEART ROT It involves the heart leaves and eventually spreads along the stalks causing decaying at the centre. It may occur on land which has an excess lime content, and is controlled by spraying with Bordeaux Mixture.

LEAF SPOT This attacks the foliage, especially in damp, humid weather, first as small brown spots on the leaves. These rapidly increase in size and under magnification will be seen to be covered with black dots which are the fruiting bodies. Soon the foliage will turn brown and die. Spraying with Bordeaux Mixture shortly after the plants are set out and again before earthing up will prevent an outbreak. It is also advisable to sow seed which has been treated for Leaf Spot as recommended by the Ministry of Agriculture.