Growing Peppers

Peppers are of two groups, the sweet and the hot, the former being Capsicum, the latter C. baccatum, also known as the chillie or Bird Pepper. Both are suffciently hardy to grow in the open in the milder parts of Britain. In the colder parts, they are best grown in the greenhouse or frames. The sweet-fleshed peppers grow large, like rectangular- lobed tomatoes; they may be sliced for use in salads or cut into halves and (after removing the seeds) baked and served with meat. Again, like the tomato, they are green and change to bright red only when fully ripe, though one variety, `Oshkosh’. is yellow. The F, hybrid peppers are hardier and more vigorous and may be grown outdoors where others would crop with difficulty. The round Cherry and long Cayenne peppers are less hardy.

Sowing Seed is sown early in March in small pots containing, John limes compost in a temperature of 60°F. Or it may be sown in boxes and the seedlings transplanted to small pots when large enough to handle. Grow on in a similar temperature, syringing the plants frequently to prevent an outbreak of red spider and. about May 1st, move to larger pots containing a compost made up of equal parts of fibrous loam, decayed manure and coarse sand. About June ist, plant out after hardening into a sheltered sunny border and into a soil containing material from the compost heap or some decayed strawy manure. Allow i8 inches between the plants. If growing under glass, discontinue artificial heat in early May and, towards the month end. move to larger pots containing a compost similar to that recommended for the earlier potting. Give the plants a daily syringe and never allow the compost to dry out. Weekly applications of dilute liquid manure will enhance the quality of the fruits.

To guard against Blossom-end Rot which is caused by physiological disturbance and allows the fruit to become infected by bacteria, never expose the plants to droughts where growing under glass, especially when the fruit has set.

Exhibiting Well grown capsicums make an interesting and exotic display. Careful feeding and watering is necessary for the fruits to reach exhibition size. When removing from the plants handle carefully for the skins bruise easily and wrap each in tissue paper before taking to the show. The fruits should be fresh, plump and brightly colored. They should have about half inch of stem attached.

Pests and Diseases

FRUIT SPOT This is caused by the fungus Collet.- trichmn nigrum, spots appearing on the fruits as red depressions. Control by removing infected fruit and spraying with weak Bordeaux !Mixture. The trouble may be eliminated by soaking the seed in cold water for 12 hours, then draining before immersing the seed tOr 5 minutes in copper sulphate solution (quarter ounce to 1 pint of water), drying off and sowing without delay.

GREY MOULD attacks the stems and leaves, also the fruits causing the appearance of large grey spots. Spraying the plants before coming into bloom.

RED SPIDER is the most troublesome pest for plants growing under glass and is most prevalent where conditions are too dry. Frequent syringing of the plants as for tomatoes and cucumbers will usually prevent an outbreak but where growing commercially, fumigation with an azobenzene smoke will safeguard the plants; this is repeated after 14 days, before the first fruits set.