Paths for your vegetable garden

Paths are important for, if well made, this will enable a barrow to he easily moved about the plot, in addition to mechanical cultivators, whilst the lady of the house will be able to pull a few radishes or spring onions or cut a cabbage or lettuce without the need to change her shoes in wet weather on every occasion. Permanent paths will be an asset but they should riot be constructed until the vegetable garden has been laid out. Following the accepted 4-course rotation of crops, the ground is divided into four main rectangular sections and so that the paths The paths should be made 2 feet wide, this being the minimum width necessary for moving the various implements about with ease. First mark out the various sections and the paths required, then begin making them by removing about 4 inches of soil, the depth of a brick placed on its side. On either edge of the path, bricks are laid with their side uppermost which will give the path a neat appearance.

The space between the two rows of bricks is filled with clinker, rubble, or crushed brick to a depth of about 3 inches which is made firm and compact. On top of the base, a layer of cement is spread to a depth of r inch so that the finished surface is level with the sides of the bricks. As an alternative make the base 2 inches deep and spread over it a thin layer of cement. On to this lay paving stones or concrete flagstones. If the flagstones are 2 feet wide (which is usual), allow for the necessary width when the bricks are laid, marking out the ground accurately with lines.

Apart from a spade, the only tool needed will he a builder’s spirit level which will not only enable a more professional job to be done but will ensure that the surface is made level. Obtain a builder’s level long enough to span the sides oldie bricks and in this way the surface may be made level throughout. To make good paths will require effort and money but they will repay for their making a hundredfold in case in moving about the garden and in cleanliness. The work should he done in stages when gardening work permits but do not use cement when there is frost about during the winter months.

On one side of the plot will be placed the greenhouse. This should be erected in a north to south direction so that it will receive the maximum amount of sunlight throughout the day. The various types of greenhouse and their erection are described in the following chapter. On the north side of the greenhouse and so that it does not cause shade, will be the potting shed where cuttings may be prepared for rooting, composts and fertilisers stored, and tools and equipment housed and maintained. If fruits and rootcrops are to be stored there during winter, it will be advisable to line the shed with hardboard when the space between the inner and outer walls should be tilled with an insulating material such as fibreglass winch is both mould and insect- proof.

 This will go some way towards making the shed frost proof and will provide extra warmth for those who work in the shed in winter. A window light in the roof will assist ventilation in summer and provide additional light for implement cleaning and the preparation of cuttings, etc. during winter. Electricity in the greenhouse and shed will enable earlier crops to be grown and will permit work to be done during hours of darkness so that more daylight hours may be spent in the garden. Much can be done in greenhouse and shed during winter when adverse weather may prevent any outdoor work.